Oils - ATF, TC and Diff - whats best?

[KWAWD]

Hello, this is my first post and I'm glad I found this community because it looks like its going to be very helpful.
I've picked up a 2004 KW Verada AWD which I'm getting to know. I'm only a driver with no mechanical training, but I know my old car very well and like to maintain my cars well. Previously I had a FWD Verada from new (now with 200,000 Km's on it) and the two cars are similiar to drive in some ways but very different in others. I'm really enjoying the AWD and I'm looking forward to some advice from the members here.

I've noticed that this AWD is noisier and has a harsher shift than my other car.
Basically there is a feeling of torque twist when it changes gear at any speed with a minor thumping feeling. Mostly noticeable at lower speeds, i.e. city traffic.
There is also a vibration sound at idle RPM which I describe as sounding like a lawn mower and coming from somewhere low towards the front, although not very loud! Hard to hear once driving. The sound may be normal, but my previous car is extremely quiet (except for some tappet noise) with smooth gear changes, even after all these years.

The AWD has very low KM's and has probably spent much of its life just garaged. The dealer has explained the issue of dry seals in the transmission as a possible reason for harsh shift. There is also a harsh thump when engaging reverse. The thump is harsh when first engaging reverse but then moving to neutral and then back to reverse and its not so bad. Its a thump with a metallic click noise of some sort coming from the rear. Dealer agrees its harsh but says its torque and nothing to worry over. Some mornings its pretty bad though with a very harsh thump and I'm worried about it. I really want to look after the car and ensure prolonged life by proper servicing and use of the correct oils.
The only other thing is that there is another vibration sound when its first started in the mornings from cold. This comes from the front while reversing out of the driveway and then goes away. Sounds like a bearing noise, but not too loud. I've had them check everything including CV joints and nothing seems to be wrong.

I've had the ATF and oils flushed a couple of times; when I first bought it and a few 000k's later.
There may have been an improvement in the shift quality but harshness is still there.

Initially the dealer flushed the ATF with "Dexron Ti" (according to the invoice) and later (about 3K) I had it flushed again and the invoice states "SP-Tii". I assume thats the same oil, Dexron?
I had the TC oil replaced and the invoice shows "Transfer Case Oil GL5"
(I understand that the TC and front diff are integrated and share the same oil.)
Later I had them replace the TC oil again and they used "DiaQueen Synthetic".
The rear diff oil was replaced only once and the invoice doesnt describe what it was.

At that point I wanted to understand what the best/correct oils are that I should be putting into this car.
So... i did some research and I learned about the GL ratings and Viscosity ratings for multigrade oils.
Can anyone tell me what the best recommended oil products are for the transmission, TC and rear diff in this car and what GL codes and Viscosity ratings apply?
What are you guys using?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

[TiMi]

dextron kills mitsubishi transmissions
the mitsubishi sp3 fluid is what to use...
people have had invoices before that say dextron by default though even though the workshop used a compatible fluid.

[BergDonk]

Re the transmission and other noises. I'd contact MadMagna at MitsFix and go visit him. He knows these cars inside out and you will save time and money by going there first. He also has his preferences for oils.

FWIW, I use Mobil 1 5/50 in the engine, Mits SPIII in the gearbox and Mobil 1 SHC 75/90 in the transfer case and rear diff. No lube issues as yet and coming up 195,000 kms in my TWII VRX AWD. These fluids have been used since break in and changed at book intervals. Bear in mind that this is a country car that does 25-30,000 kms a year and is therefore easy on oils. I change the kids TJs at 10,000 engine and was 40,000 for the gearbox but am now reducing that to 30,000 kms. I noticed an improvement in box operation after the last changes, and that means to me I left it a bit long. They do more urban work now.

Steve

[KWAWD]

Mitsubishi SP iii? Maybe that's what they meant to say when they wrote SP Tii on the invoice?
I'll have to ask them for the exact details.
I didnt know about MitsFix, I'll check them as well.

[edit]
Ok, the dealer confirms the following:
Mitsubishi SP-3 ATF for the transmission on both occasions. (The "dexron" reference on the invoice was incorrect.)
Castrol VMX GL5 75W85 for the Transfer case first time, then Mitsubishi DiaQueen second time.
Rear diff has Castrol LSX 90.
This appears to be the standard recommended oils that the dealers use.
Reading Castrols info on their website and it all sounds pretty good.
The DiaQueen is used in the EVO so should be fine for the Verada as well.

Hmm. I will see if MitsFix can help regarding the vibration noises.

[FamilyWagon]

Hey mate.

Always try and use Mitsubishi oils in the tranny, tc and rear diff. There is a additive you can put in the rear diff for the LSD. It is a Mitsubishi product and fairly dear. For memory it's called something like a friction modifier for Mitsubishi LSD's. Madmagna will know it.

As for shift quality, try reprogramming the transmission shift sequence. There is a document on here that tells you how to do it. And it works, I had similar issues and fixed them all.
As for that groan bearing noise under light acceleration when cold, that is your belt that does your a/c and alternator etc. needs a tighten. They like to he fairly tight to stop that bearing like noise. Common problem but very easily fixed.

The AWD is a louder and not as refined car as the fwd. is a much better car but they are / have never been as quiet or smooth as their fwd brothers.

Enjoy the great motoring mate.

[Parsha]

Welcome to the club.

I use Mitsubishi ATF for the transmission and Diaqueen for the transfer case and rear diff. The product FamilyWagon is referring to is called "Friction Modifier for LSD oil" and the part number is MB664682. Costs about $32 for a 100ml bottle. He put me onto it. You add 50ml to the rear diff only; don't put it in the transfer case.

[TiMi]

Are the diffs in the AWD clutch type ones?

[munkeymanz]

I believe the rear LSD is clutch-type but the centre LSD is like a torque converter, just fans in oil. I think I'm right?

[BergDonk]

Both centre and rear diffs are sealed viscous coupling units, or VCUs. As I interpret the manual, the VCUs are not servicable, and are completely sealed within the outer housing where the oil is added. They are not traditional LSDs and they are both specified to use the same oil. LSD oil is of no value, and arguably a negative. LSD oil is designed to be less slippery so that the clutch packs grip and therfore work, which is not an issue here.

Of course, I reserve the right to be wrong.

Steve

[KWAWD]

Awesome advice, thanks guys. Is there consensus on the oils to use?
So DiaQueen in the TC and rear diff? Regular Mits SP 3 in the transmission?
And that friction modifier in the rear diff?

@familyWagon, I had the ECU reset and error codes checked, but no difference.
Good to know that the AWD's are generally less refined. Maybe this is all pretty normal.

Really appreciate all ur help here!